Common Issues and Solutions
Like dogs and cats etc, your girls may develop common problems which you need to be aware of, however our comprehensive vaccination programme ensures that your girls are protected from the serious diseases which affect poultry. The more common problems are all easily treated, do not require a trip to the vets and usually do not cause any long term health problems if treated appropriately.
Red Mite and Lice.
This is easily the most common problem that we come across. The mites live in the cracks within the housing and come in from wild birds so it's often hard to avoid! It is important to treat early, to keep your girls healthy, and this is fairly easy to do. It tends to be a problem in the warm weather, so keep some red mite powder available and just mix it in with bedding and dust your girls if you have a problem.
Tell Tale Signs: small red dots in crevices or around the tail feathers of the birds. If your hens suddenly decide not to go in the house and look pale around the head then you most likely have red mite. It will reduce laying if not treated. It is best to have a regular disinfectant to clean your coop with in addition to red mite powder to apply direct to the chickens. We use products which are DEFRA approved or organic eg Poultry Shield and Barrier Red Mite Powder, which means you can continue enjoying your girls eggs safely. Feel free to talk to us about the different products and we can advise on what you may need.
Lice are less common. They are yellow in colour, are about 3 mm long and live on the bird, they lay eggs near the base of the feathers mainly near the tail. If a lice problem is identified, thoroughly cover the animal with a lice powder (we recommend & stock Barrier Lice Powder), paying particular attention to the neck, under belly, back and base of the tail. Ensure that the powder is thoroughly worked in. Treatments usually last for up to 6 weeks but in wet weather conditions a further application may be required.
Scaly Leg Mite.
This is caused by a mite burrowing and living under the scales of the leg causing a great deal of discomfort and irritation to your birds. It is easily seen by raised scales on the birds legs which look very rough and uncomfortable. If left for too long it can cause lameness and can make it difficult to perch, it is also contagious to other birds but is easily treatable. Either massage the legs well with vaseline and repeat again after 7 days or alternatively dip the legs in surgical spirit once a week for 3 weeks. For ease, there are commercial products on the market such as “Barrier scaly leg”.
Worming.
It is sensible to worm your birds 3-4 times a year to keep your chickens in tip top condition and keep egg production at its maximum, it is extremely easy with many products available eg VermX and again we are happy to talk to you about these.
Hen Pecking.
This can be a problem in any size of flock and is usually caused by introducing new hens, overcrowding, boredom and sometimes a lack of the vitamins and minerals if the incorrect diet is given. Always ensure that enough space has been provided for your hens. You will notice hen pecking when one hen is consistently being picked on by the others and feathers are removed, sometimes blood is drawn so the "hen pecked" hen must be removed and separated until healed before being replaced as the red colour of the blood will only encourage more pecking. Chickens have a natural pecking order so they will always have a bit of a go at each other and remove the odd feather but make sure it is not to excess. It will help if you throw some corn on the ground to keep them busy, also try hanging a cabbage or nettles from a string in the run to give them something to peck and play with. Anti-pecking sprays are now available which essentially make you chicken smell like garlic to other chickens thus acting as a great deterrent !!
Broody Hens.
A broody hen will refuse to leave the nest, she will sit in the nest all spread out covering her clutch of eggs. She may sit there for up to a month expecting her eggs to hatch. She should get off the nest once a day to eat and drink but make sure she does! If you are concerned, either lift her off and shut the door for a short while to make sure she gets a drink, or move food and drink to within her reach whilst sitting. If your hens go broody the only thing you can do is to remove her from the nest and prevent her from returning for about 4-5 days.
Vaccination Programme.
All of our hens are fully vaccinated in accordance with the following table.